Visual Inspections
Many problems are confident to the trained eye. Look at all the leads to appliances. These should only have the outer insulation showing. If this is damaged, the lead should whether be shortened, cutting out the damaged piece, or substituted altogether. Damage ordinarily occurs at whether end of the lead. If the lead does not go into the plug properly, the plug should be rewired (see plugs); similarly at the other end. If the lead has been damaged in the middle (a common occurrence with vacuum cleaners, hedge trimmers, lawn mowers, etc.), the lead should whether be substituted or reconnected with a proper lead connector (2 or 3 core depending on whether the lead is earthed or not), which has proper cable grips for the lead going in and out. Using 'choc. Blocks' and/or insulation tape for reconnecting leads is not advised.
Sockets & Socket Sets Hand Tools
Any damage to the casing of appliances should be repaired. Live parts should be well protected from the exterior casing, and if this contains any metal, in most cases the appliance should be earthed. (Many old table and floor lamps, particularly home made ones, are not earthed even when they have metal parts. These should be re-wired with 3 core cable.) It is permitted for 'double insulated' products not to have an earth (even some with metal exterior parts). In this case there must be at least two layers of insulation in the middle of live parts and the outside. If the product has been bought from a reputable dealer in the last few years, and is not earthed, it is probably Ok.
Best Price Ingersoll Rand SK4C3F 1/2-Inch Drive 3-Piece Lugnut Service Flip Impact Socket Set
Ingersoll Rand SK4C3F 1/2-Inch Drive 3-Piece Lugnut Service Flip Impact Socket Set Feature
- Tough and versatile 1/2-inch 3-piece flip impact socket set
- Forged chrome-molybdenum steel for high-strength durability
- Laser-etched size labeling
- Electro-phosphate finish for a sleeker look and high visibility
- Limited lifetime warranty
Ingersoll Rand SK4C3F 1/2-Inch Drive 3-Piece Lugnut Service Flip Impact Socket Set Overview
Hardened high-grade steel construction and heat treated to withstand rough use and hard pounding. Includes 3/4in. x 13/16in. standard flip socket, 19mm x 21mm metric flip socket and 3in. extension. Flip Impact Socket (mm): 19 x 21, Material Type: Hardened high grade steel, Drive (in.): 1/2, Extension Length (in.): 3, Flip Impact Socket (in.): 3/4 x 13/16, Pieces (qty.): 3Ingersoll Rand SK4C3F 1/2-Inch Drive 3-Piece Lugnut Service Flip Impact Socket Set Specifications
Ingersoll Rand’s SK4C3F 1/2-inch drive three-piece lug nut service flip impact socket set includes one 3/4-inch by 13/16-inch socket, one 19-mm by 21-mm socket, and one 3-inch extension socket. Ideal for automotive work, the SK4C3F set in its convenient heavy-duty plastic storage case is easily transportable from the garage to the shop to the work site.
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 Ingersoll Rand's SK4C3F 1/2-inch drive lug nut service flip impact socket set is ideal for common autmotive projects. View larger |
These sockets’ impact-grade toughness is designed for high-torque applications, and the forged chrome-molybdenum steel provides high-strength durability. The electro-phosphate finish presents a sleeker look for higher visibility, and the laser-etched size labeling makes for easier identification—which means less time spent fumbling for the right size and more time spent getting the job done faster.
About Ingersoll Rand
With a history dating back to 1871, Ingersoll Rand and its family of brands represents a proven history in construction, mining, industrial, and commercial markets. Through acquisitions, innovations, and customer focus, today's Ingersoll Rand offers market-leading solutions and services that enable customers to create progress through a variety of industries and markets that touch everyday life.
What's in the Box
One Ingersoll Rand SK4C3F 1/2-inch drive three-piece lug nut service flip impact socket set and one molded plastic case.
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| Ingersoll Rand's SK4C3F three-piece impact socket set comes with a tough blow-molded plastic case. (Click to enlarge) | ||
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Customer Reviews
*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Aug 24, 2012 16:15:06
Any signs of overheating (black or burning marks etc.) indicate a qoute (see later).
Many citizen think looking sparks at switches (more commonly in the dark) indicates a problem, but this is general in most cases. Extra switches are available which do not spark, but these are high-priced and only significant in environments where there are inflammable materials around.
Feeling and Listening
Anything that feels hot to the touch (often accompanied by signs of burning) indicates a bad connection, except of procedure in heaters themselves. So does a crackling sound. This often occurs in the middle of plug and socket and could indicate a bad contact in the middle of these two. In this case one or the other, or often both, should be replaced. If say a plug has come to be worn, prolonged use of it will often cause the socket it is plugged into, to come to be worn as well, and in this case both should be replaced. A uncomplicated way to tell if the socket is worn, is to plug something else into it with a good looking plug, and see if it overheats with this.
Bad contacts can occur at other places too. They can often be cured by rewiring so that all connections are tight and well insulated.
If an otherwise seemingly good lead seems to be getting hot, it ordinarily indicates it is not up to the job, and needs to be substituted by a thicker one. This is particularly true of prolongation leads (see later).
If a 'tingle' is felt when touching an appliance, it indicates a serious fault, and the appliance should not be used until this has been rectified.
Sockets
All sockets can be tested with a relatively cheap (around £5) socket tester. For a Uk version, see the link below, but these are also available in other countries for their singular type of socket. They ordinarily have three lights and when plugged into a socket, if all three lights come on, the socket is wired correctly. If only two, one or no lights come on, there is a fault and the aggregate of lights tells you what that fault is. Sockets should preferably be switched so that the furnish to any appliance can be turned off in an emergency.
Plugs
This applies to Uk quadrilateral 3 pin plugs, but the same theory apply to other types.
If the plug is not of the moulded type (these cannot be repaired - they must be cut off, discarded and substituted if faulty) unscrew the cover and study the plug. The cable grip must grip the outer insulation of the lead. The international colour code is: brown to live terminal (the one with the fuse related to it), blue to neutral (opposite to the live) and green or green/yellow to the top earth terminal. Each contact should be secure, with diminutive or no uninsulated wire showing exterior the terminal. There should be diminutive slack on the live and neutral; the earth lead can be left slacker, so that if the lead is pulled out, the earth is the last one to come out. The accurate fuse for the appliance should be fitted in the plug. The most common values are 3A, 5A and 13A. Use 3A for appliances up to 700 watts (e.g. Lamps, much electronic equipment, etc.), 5A up to 1200 watts (some drills, hair dryers, etc) and 13A up to 3000 watts (most heaters, kettles, washing machines, tumble driers etc.). A rating plate somewhere on the appliance should tell you the wattage. If it gives the current (in amps.) instead, this can be de facto converted to watts by multiplying be the mains voltage (e.g. A 2A appliance running off a 240V mains would have a wattage of 480).
The old plugs with uninsulated live and neutral pins should be replaced, so that a plug half pulled out of a socket is safe, even if person pokes a metal object in the middle of plug and socket.
Pins on plugs should be shiny brass (brass is used because it contains copper, a good conductor, but is stronger than copper). If they are dull or dirty, they should be cleaned with emery cloth or replaced.
Increasing the no. Of sockets
In these days of a profligacy of computer and other electronic equipment, there are often not enough sockets available and there are varied ways of increasing these. The best way is to use a suitable prolongation lead, which can have 2, 4, 6, 8 or 10 cut off sockets and each socket can be switched individually or not. Alternatively, socket converters can be used. These plug into a socket and 4 or 3 switched new sockets are then available. There is no lead related with these. Mains adaptors (certainly unswitched and unfused ones) should be avoided.
Extension leads have a plug on them, fused at the maximum current the lead will take, ordinarily governed by the thickness and distance of cable used on the lead. It is probably better to use a 13A lead in all cases (this is the maximum that should be drawn from a singular socket). If the total power plugged into the lead exceeds what it is fused at, the fuse will blow. Very long leads should have a thicker cable, and those on a reel should be unwound fully to aid heat dissipation, if a current approaching their maximum is being used. If the lead gets warm (see earlier) it is a sign that it is reaching its maximum capacity.
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